Choosing a Board and Going Further
Basic Electronics
Course 1 · Chapter 11 · Choosing a Board and Going Further
Basic Electronics 10 used four boards, each for one circuit, and named the reason each time. This last chapter turns that habit into a method. You will compare the boards on the same axes (logic level, speed, memory, I/O, power, wireless, price, ease of use), put numbers on the one resource every mobile robot runs out of (battery energy), match a board to each kind of robot job, learn to read a datasheet and to derate a part for heat, set up a small bench of test equipment, and learn to solder a joint that will last. The chapter ends with a recap of the whole course and the path on to the robotics courses.
All prices, clock speeds, memory sizes and currents below are typical or approximate figures from memory. They change with the board revision, the maker, the shop and the year, so treat them as a guide to the order of magnitude and check the maker’s page or the datasheet before you buy or design around a number. The logic levels, the ratios and the formulas do not change.
1. The boards side by side
The table of Basic Electronics 10 compared pin current, ADC, PWM, interrupts and pull-ups. This table adds the other axes that decide a purchase, and three more boards that you will meet. Read it as a map, not a league table: no board wins every row.
| Board | Chip and speed (typical) | Logic | Memory (typical) | Wireless | Price (approx.) | Ease of use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arduino Uno (R3) | ATmega328P, 8-bit, 16 MHz | 5 V | 2 KB RAM, 32 KB flash | None | Official about 20 to 25 pounds; clones about 6 to 10 | Easiest: huge tutorial base, forgiving, simulated in Tinkercad Circuits |
| Arduino Nano (same chip) | ATmega328P, 16 MHz | 5 V | 2 KB RAM, 32 KB flash | None | About 4 to 20 pounds (clone to official) | As the Uno, in a breadboard-sized package |
| Raspberry Pi Pico | RP2040, dual-core Cortex-M0+, up to 133 MHz | 3.3 V | 264 KB RAM, 2 MB flash (board) | None (the Pico W adds Wi-Fi and Bluetooth) | About 4 pounds (Pico W about 6) | Easy: MicroPython or C, drag-and-drop programming over USB |
| ESP32 dev board | Dual-core Xtensa, up to 240 MHz (other ESP32 variants differ) | 3.3 V | About 520 KB RAM, 4 MB flash (board) | Wi-Fi and Bluetooth built in | About 5 to 10 pounds | Moderate: very capable, but pin quirks (input-only pins, boot pins, ADC2 and Wi-Fi) catch beginners |
| Teensy 4.x | Cortex-M7, about 600 MHz | 3.3 V (pins are not 5 V tolerant) | 1 MB RAM, 2 to 8 MB flash | None on the board | About 25 to 35 pounds | Moderate: Arduino-style software, very fast, for jobs like a balancing robot or audio |
| Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 | Quad-core Cortex-A72 (Pi 4, about 1.5 GHz); faster on the Pi 5 | 3.3 V, not 5 V tolerant | 1 to 8 GB RAM; memory card for storage | Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Ethernet | About 35 to 75 pounds, more for larger memory | Moderate: a full Linux computer, a keyboard and screen help, loose timing |
| Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W | Quad-core Cortex-A53, about 1 GHz | 3.3 V | 512 MB RAM | Wi-Fi, Bluetooth | About 15 pounds | As the Pi, smaller and cheaper, less memory |
Reading the table: three ideas that save money and time
- Clock speed is not the point. A 16 MHz Uno reads a pin and turns on a motor driver with microsecond-level timing that a 1.5 GHz Raspberry Pi running an operating system cannot promise. A microcontroller runs one program with no operating system, so its timing is predictable; a Pi runs many programs and its timing is not. Speed matters for vision, maths and networking; predictability matters for motors and encoders (Basic Electronics 10).
- Logic level decides what you can connect directly. A 5 V board matches 5 V sensors and 5 V logic ICs; a 3.3 V board matches the TB6612 and DRV8833 motor drivers and most modern sensors, and needs a divider or a level shifter for 5 V signals (Basic Electronics 8 and Basic Electronics 10).
- The cheapest board is rarely the cheapest project. A 5-pound board that needs three extra modules, a level shifter and an hour of debugging costs more than a 10-pound board that has the radio built in. Count the whole bill of parts and your own time.
2. Power: a budget per board and a battery runtime
A robot dies when its battery does, and the battery that matters is usually the one that powers the logic for hours while the motors only run in bursts. The method is the same as the current budget of Basic Electronics 9: list every load, add the currents, check the peak against what the supply can deliver, then convert to energy and time.
A complete power budget for one robot
3. The best board for each robot job
Basic Electronics 10 gave a short table of four jobs. This one widens it. Each row names a board, the reason and the one thing to watch; “beside” means that a second board handles the part the first is bad at, which is how many robots are built.
| Robot job | Best board | Why, and the catch |
|---|---|---|
| A first robot: line follower or sumo with a few 5 V analogue sensors, no wireless | Arduino Uno or Nano | 5 V logic and ADC match 5 V sensors; the most tutorials; forgiving of mistakes. Catch: 2 KB of RAM is small, and 8-bit maths is slow for anything fancy. |
| A precise driving robot: two motors with encoders, a PID loop, 20 kHz PWM, a battery monitor | Raspberry Pi Pico | PWM on any pin at 20 kHz, interrupts on every pin, 3.3 V drivers, a 12-bit ADC, low cost. Catch: no wireless (use a Pico W if you need it), few ADC pins. |
| A robot controlled from a phone or a web page; a Wi-Fi sensor node | ESP32 | Radio and two cores on the chip, many pins. Catch: input-only pins, ADC2 off while Wi-Fi runs, noisy ADC, higher power than a Pico. |
| A camera robot: following a face, a colour or a line from images; speech; a web dashboard | Raspberry Pi 4 or 5, with a Pico or an Arduino beside it for the motors | Needs an operating system and memory for image libraries; the Pi cannot give hard timing or an ADC, so the small board drives the motors and reads the encoders and sensors. Catch: 3 to 6 W, a 3 A supply, a long boot time, and shutting it down properly. |
| A small, light robot that needs vision but little else | Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W | The same software at a fraction of the weight and power (about 1 W). Catch: 512 MB of RAM limits the vision work. |
| A self-balancing robot (a tilt sensor read and acted on 200 times a second) | Pico, ESP32 or Teensy | A fast, predictable loop and floating-point maths. Catch: an 8-bit Uno can do a simple version but runs out of speed and memory first. |
| An arm with six servos | Pico, or an Arduino Mega or Uno with a servo driver board | Many timed pulses at once: a Pico has 16 PWM channels; a PCA9685 servo-driver module (16 channels over I2C) adds servos to any board. Catch: servo power is its own supply, never the board (Basic Electronics 9). |
| A sensor logger or beacon that must run for weeks on batteries | Pico (or an ESP32 in deep sleep) | Low power, sleep modes. Catch: the board’s own regulator and LEDs, not the chip, often dominate the sleep current, so a bare chip or a low-power board beats a general dev board. |
| A robot with a spinning range sensor, mapping or ROS software | Raspberry Pi 4 or 5, with a microcontroller for the motors | The robotics software and the network drivers run on Linux. Catch: the loose timing again, so the real-time part goes to the small board. |
A quick decision procedure
- What must it do that is hard? If the answer is vision, speech or a screen, a Raspberry Pi goes in; if it is precise timing or analogue input, a microcontroller goes in; if it is both, use both.
- What logic level are the parts? 5 V parts favour an Uno; 3.3 V parts favour a Pico or ESP32; a mixture means dividers or level shifters (Basic Electronics 8).
- Does it need a radio? Yes, and nothing else special: ESP32 or Pico W. No: avoid paying for one.
- Do the pin and current budgets fit? Count analogue inputs, PWM outputs, interrupt pins and the total current (Basic Electronics 10), and the power budget of section 2.
- How experienced are you? A board with plenty of examples gets you running sooner; first projects should not need a pin-quirks chart.
4. Reading a datasheet
Every part you will ever use has a datasheet, and every datasheet has the same few parts. The skill is knowing which table to trust for which question. Download the datasheet from the maker (the part number is printed on the part); a distributor’s copy is usually the same document.
- Features and description (page 1). What the part is for and its headline figures. A summary only; never design from it.
- Absolute maximum ratings. The limits that destroy the part: supply voltage, pin voltage, current, temperature. These are not operating conditions. You design to stay well inside them (Basic Electronics 10 used “supply plus 0.3 V” for a pin).
- Recommended operating conditions. The ranges within which the part is guaranteed to meet its other specifications: this is the table to design to.
- Electrical characteristics. Each parameter has minimum, typical and maximum columns and, importantly, test conditions. The typical value is what a part usually does at 25 degrees C; the minimum and maximum are the guarantees. Design so the circuit works at the worst case in the direction that hurts: the largest value if too much is bad, the smallest if too little is bad.
- Graphs. Curves such as forward voltage against current, or resistance against temperature, show what the table does not (typically measured at one temperature).
- Package and pinout. Which leg is which, and the size and spacing. Check this before wiring, especially for the TMP36 of Basic Electronics 10, whose reversed pins make it hot in seconds.
- Application circuit. The maker’s recommended wiring, including the capacitors and resistors the part needs.
Worked example: sizing a logic-level MOSFET from its datasheet
Derating: the datasheet number is not the number to use
Ratings are given at a stated temperature, usually 25 degrees C, and fall as the part gets hotter. Derating is the reduction. Datasheets give a derating curve or a rule such as “derate linearly from 70 degrees C to zero at 155 degrees C”; as a formula, with the power rating Prated given at Trated and falling to zero at Tmax:
5. Test equipment: what to buy first
You can build a long way with three instruments. A fourth item, the breadboard and its wires, is cheap and was covered in Basic Electronics 2.
- The digital multimeter (DMM). The first purchase (Basic Electronics 2 showed how to use it). A cheap one is adequate for continuity, voltage and resistance, but check its accuracy specification, which is written as ±(a % of reading + b digits). The percentage scales with what you measure; the digits are a fixed amount at the meter’s resolution on that range, and matter most for small readings.
- A bench power supply with a current limit. Adjustable voltage, and a current limit you set before connecting the circuit. A first power-up with the limit at, say, 100 mA turns a wiring mistake into a lit LED on the supply instead of a burnt part. It is the second purchase; until then, batteries and a fuse (Basic Electronics 9) do the job.
- An oscilloscope or a logic analyser. A scope draws voltage against time and is the only instrument that shows a PWM waveform, ripple, ringing or a bounce. Two numbers matter: bandwidth and sample rate. A logic analyser shows only high and low, many channels at once, and is the tool for serial, I2C and SPI traffic; cheap USB ones with 8 channels cost about 10 pounds, and a small USB scope with 20 MHz bandwidth about 50 to 70 pounds (approximate figures).
6. Soldering: making a joint that lasts
A breadboard is for testing; a robot that moves needs soldered connections, because a push-fit lead shakes loose. Soldering melts an alloy (solder) so that it wets both the part’s lead and the board’s pad and, on cooling, forms a metal joint. The flux inside the solder wire cleans the metal so that the solder can wet it.
- Equipment: a temperature-controlled iron or station (about 25 to 60 W, with a fine conical or small chisel tip), solder wire with a flux core (0.6 to 0.8 mm for electronics), a damp sponge or brass wool to clean the tip, desoldering braid, a stand, and ventilation (a small fan or fume extractor to draw the flux smoke away from your face).
- Temperature: the usual tin-lead solder (Sn63/Pb37) melts at about 183 degrees C; lead-free solder (for example the SAC305 alloy) melts at about 217 to 220 degrees C. A tip set to roughly 320 to 350 degrees C works for both (typical figures). Too cool, and the joint is dull and lumpy; too hot, and pads lift and parts are damaged.
- Technique: tin the tip with a little solder; touch the tip so that it heats both the lead and the pad for one to two seconds; feed the solder wire into the junction of lead, pad and tip, not onto the tip; let a small amount flow; remove the solder first, then the iron; hold the part still until the joint is solid (a second or two). The whole joint takes about two to four seconds; a longer time risks damaging the part or the board.
- A good joint is shiny (a lead-free joint is a little duller), shaped like a small smooth cone or volcano that follows the lead up from the pad, with the lead visible inside it. A bad joint is a dull, grainy ball that sits on top (a cold joint: poor contact, intermittent), or a blob that bridges to the next pad (a short). Reheat it with a touch of fresh solder; remove surplus with braid.
- Heat-sensitive parts: the first parts to fit are the low-profile ones (resistors, diodes), and the last the tall ones (headers, capacitors). Use sockets for ICs, and respect the polarity of diodes, LEDs and electrolytic capacitors (Basic Electronics 5).
7. Going further: the next two courses
Basic Electronics ends where a robot’s electronics begins. Two further courses on this site are planned (neither has been written yet) and are written to follow this one:
- Robotics Fundamentals (planned): the mechanical and control ideas of a robot, which use the parts of this course as building blocks: sensors and what they measure, actuators and drive systems, kinematics, feedback and control, and how the electronics of a robot is laid out and tested.
- Programming for Robotics (planned): the software side, which builds on the boards of Basic Electronics 10 and this chapter: reading sensors and driving motors in code, loops and timing, state machines and simple control programs.
Until they appear, the best next step is the practical one: pick one of the board jobs in section 3, build it on a breadboard, then make it permanent with solder. Each project teaches the same lesson as this whole course: a number you calculated, a reading you measured and a limit you read from a datasheet should agree, and when they do not, the disagreement is where the learning is.
8. Course complete: a recap of Chapters 1 to 10
| Chapter | Title | The one thing to keep |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Electricity Basics | Voltage pushes, current flows, resistance opposes: V = I R and P = V I are in every calculation after this. |
| 2 | Circuits and Measurement | Read a schematic, use Kirchhoff’s laws, wire a breadboard, measure with a multimeter (voltage across, current through). |
| 3 | Resistors and Dividers | Resistor values and power ratings; the divider Vout = Vin R2 / (R1 + R2); pull-ups and pull-downs. |
| 4 | Capacitors and Inductors | RC time constants, filters, decoupling, and the back-EMF of an inductor that makes a switch-off spike. |
| 5 | Diodes and LEDs | One-way current, an LED always needs a resistor, flyback and polarity protection. |
| 6 | Transistors as Switches | A small current or voltage at a base or gate switches a larger load; choose a logic-level MOSFET for a 3.3 V pin. |
| 7 | Analogue Signals and Op-Amps | Analogue versus digital, ADC resolution, the op-amp as buffer, amplifier and comparator, and noise. |
| 8 | Digital Logic Basics | Logic levels and noise margins, gates, Schmitt triggers, counters, the 555 timer and level shifting. |
| 9 | Motors, Relays and Power | Motor model, PWM, H-bridges, servos, relays, batteries, regulators, and the current budget that keeps a robot from resetting. |
| 10 | Microcontrollers in Circuits | A board is a part with limits: pin current, ADC and PWM resolution, pull-ups, level shifting, and safe motor driving. |
| 11 | Choosing a Board and Going Further | Choose by logic level, timing, radio, power and price; budget the energy; read datasheets at the worst case and derate; test and solder. |
9. Challenges
Quick reference
- Choosing: hard thing first (vision: Pi; timing or analogue: microcontroller; both: both); then logic level, radio, pin and current budgets, and experience; Uno 5 V and easy; Pico 3.3 V and precise; ESP32 wireless; Pi software-heavy
- Energy: E = V × C; usable = 0.8 E; P(batt) = P(load)/efficiency; t = E(usable)/P(total); linear regulator efficiency = Vout/Vin; budget the peak and the average separately
- Datasheets: design to Recommended Operating Conditions and the worst-case min/max column; Absolute Maximum is the limit that destroys; check the test conditions, the pinout and the application circuit
- Derating: P(allowed) = Prated (Tmax − T)/(Tmax − Trated); Tj = Ta + RθJA P; run a part at no more than half its derated rating
- Test gear: meter error = (a/100) × reading + b × resolution; scope tr = 0.35/BW and bandwidth at least 5 × the fundamental; logic analyser at least 4 × the signal; set the supply’s current limit first
- Soldering: tip about 320 to 350 °C; heat lead and pad together 1 to 2 s; feed the solder to the joint, then remove solder, then the iron; shiny cone is good, dull ball is cold; ventilation, glasses, stand
- Next: Robotics Fundamentals and Programming for Robotics (both planned)
That completes Basic Electronics. You can now read a schematic, calculate the part values of a circuit, check them with a meter or a simulator, choose a board for a robot and say why, and read a datasheet critically. Robotics Fundamentals and Programming for Robotics, both planned, will use all of it.