Audio
They will not stay for bad audio. Fix sound before everything else.
Chapter 1 covered which microphone to buy. This chapter covers everything that happens after you plug it in — how to position it, how to treat your recording environment, how to capture clean audio in an untreated room, and how to fix problems in post. Good audio is 30% gear and 70% technique and environment.
Microphone Types & Polar Patterns
Every microphone has a polar pattern — the shape of the zone it picks up sound from. Understanding this determines where you position the mic and why some mics suit certain environments better than others.
Polar patterns visualised
Pattern summary
Microphone Positioning — The Biggest Free Upgrade
Moving a microphone 10 cm closer to your mouth can do more for audio quality than upgrading to a mic twice the price. Proximity matters enormously — especially for dynamic mics, which rely on close placement.
| Mic type | Ideal distance | Position | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| USB condenser (desk) | 15–30 cm | Just below or to the side of mouth, angled up. Never directly in front — plosives ('p', 'b', 't') hit the capsule hard. | Directly in front at mouth level — plosive blasts |
| Dynamic (desk / boom arm) | 5–15 cm | Must be close — dynamics lose quality fast with distance. Boom arm brings it close without obstructing the camera frame. | More than 20 cm away — sound becomes thin and distant |
| Shotgun (camera-mounted) | 30–60 cm | Points at the speaker's mouth. Works at the typical camera-to-subject distance for a talking-head shot. | Off-axis — even 30° off ruins the pickup |
| Lavalier (clip-on) | 15–20 cm (from mouth) | Clip to clothing at chest level, between buttons if possible. Avoid lapels — clothing movement causes rustle. | Under clothing — muffled; on lapels — rustle |
| Boom pole (overhead) | 30–50 cm | Above and slightly in front of the speaker, angled down toward the mouth. Points at the mouth, not the top of the head. | Dipping into frame; angled at the forehead not the mouth |
Recording Environments — The Room Is the Problem
The biggest factor in audio quality for most creators isn't the microphone — it's the room. Hard, parallel surfaces (walls, floors, ceilings, glass, desks) reflect sound back to the microphone as reverb and flutter echo. This makes voices sound distant, hollow, and unprofessional. You can't fix a bad room in post — you have to treat it at the source.
Room treatment options
The Signal Chain — From Voice to File
Understanding how your audio travels from your mouth to the editor helps you diagnose problems at the right stage.
Recording Best Practices
- Set your input level correctly. Record a test at your loudest speaking volume. Your peak should hit around
–12 dB— not clipping (red), not too quiet (below –24 dB). Leave headroom for unexpected loud moments. - Record a room tone sample first. Before speaking, record 10–15 seconds of complete silence in your recording environment. This sample is used for noise reduction in post — it's the acoustic fingerprint of your room.
- Turn off everything that makes noise. HVAC, fans, washing machine, notifications. Put your phone in another room. Close windows. The 30 seconds you spend silencing the environment will save hours of noise-reduction work.
- Monitor with headphones while recording. Plug headphones directly into the mic or interface's headphone output. You'll instantly hear your own plosives, room echo, and level issues — before you've recorded an hour of unusable audio.
- Record audio and video separately if needed. If your camera mic is mediocre, record the camera audio (for sync reference) and record clean audio on a separate dedicated recorder or your PC simultaneously. Sync in post using the clap or a clapperboard.
- Do a full take before editing anything. Record the whole piece, then review. Stopping mid-sentence to fix a mistake resets your mental state and breaks the flow. Complete takes sound more natural than stitched ones.
Fixing Audio in Post — The Processing Order
Apply audio processing in this specific order. Each step depends on the one before it — applying compression before noise reduction, for example, amplifies the noise along with the voice.
- Noise reduction first. Use the room tone sample you recorded to subtract consistent background noise (hiss, hum, air conditioning). In Audacity: Effect → Noise Reduction → Get Noise Profile → apply. In DaVinci Fairlight: the Noise Reduction plugin. Don't over-apply — too much creates an unnatural "underwater" sound. Aim to reduce, not eliminate.
- High-pass filter (HPF) at 80–100 Hz. Roll off everything below 80 Hz — this removes low-frequency rumble (traffic, desk vibration, HVAC sub-bass) that isn't part of your voice but takes up headroom and adds muddiness.
- De-esser. Tame harsh sibilance ('s', 'sh', 'ch' sounds) that condenser mics emphasise. Most NLEs and Audacity have a de-esser plugin. Target 5–8 kHz. Subtle settings — just enough to smooth the harshest peaks.
- EQ (equalisation). Boost
2–5 kHzslightly for presence and clarity. Cut200–400 Hzif the voice sounds boxy or muddy. Every voice is different — listen and adjust by ear rather than applying fixed settings. - Compression. Reduces dynamic range — brings up quiet moments, tames loud ones. Start with: ratio
3:1, threshold–18 dB, attack10 ms, release100 ms. Make-up gain to restore level after compression. Aim for a consistent, even voice. - Limiter (last in chain). A hard ceiling at
–1 to –3 dBFSprevents any peak from clipping during export. Acts as a safety net — should barely trigger on a well-compressed signal.
Common Audio Problems & Fixes
| Problem | Sounds like | Most likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Echo / reverb | Voice sounds distant, hollow, like a bathroom | Untreated room, hard surfaces | Add soft furnishings, move closer to mic, use dynamic mic, use a reflection filter |
| Background hiss | Constant white noise behind the voice | Cheap preamp, low gain, electronic interference | Noise reduction in post, better interface, keep mic cable away from power cables |
| Hum (50/60 Hz) | Low electrical drone, constant tone | Ground loop, nearby power supply, fluorescent lights | HPF in post, move mic away from power supplies, use a ground loop isolator |
| Plosives (thumps) | Bass thump on 'p', 'b', 't' sounds | Mic directly in front of mouth, no pop filter | Add foam windscreen, angle mic below/beside mouth, add fabric pop filter |
| Clipping (distortion) | Crackling, crunchy distortion on loud syllables | Input gain set too high | Lower gain until peaks sit around –12 dB; can't fix clipping in post — re-record |
| Sibilance | Harsh, sharp 'ss' and 'sh' sounds | Condenser mic, bright recording chain | De-esser plugin targeting 5–8 kHz; mic placement slightly off-axis |
| Thin / weak voice | Voice sounds small, no warmth or body | Mic too far away, HPF cutting too much low end | Move mic closer, boost 100–200 Hz gently in EQ, reduce HPF frequency |
| Clothing rustle (lav) | Scratching, rubbing sound on movement | Lav on lapel, loose clothing, necklace contact | Use a lav clip/mount under clothing with a small loop of cable; remove jewellery |
Chapter 3 Quick Reference
- Best mic for untreated rooms: Dynamic (Samson Q2U ~£65) — rejects background noise
- Best mic for treated rooms: Cardioid condenser (Rode NT-USB Mini ~£100)
- Dynamic mic distance: 5–15 cm — must be close to work properly
- USB condenser distance: 15–30 cm — off-axis (beside/below mouth, not in front)
- Best free room treatment: Record in a wardrobe or bookshelved room
- Record room tone: 15 seconds of silence before every session — needed for noise reduction
- Input level target: Peak at –12 dB — never clip (red), never below –24 dB
- Processing order: Noise reduction → HPF (80 Hz) → De-esser → EQ → Compression → Limiter
- Free audio fix tool: Adobe Podcast Enhance (browser) for quick noise removal
- Clipping: Cannot be fixed in post — re-record. Lower gain before recording.
- Pop filter: £3–5 foam windscreen eliminates plosive thumps instantly
- Monitor while recording: Headphones into the mic/interface output — catch problems live